badge

Friday, March 8, 2024

Oh Calcutta!

The " City of Joy' - Kolkatta is always full of pleasant surprises. No matter how many times you have visited this city there is something new waiting to be discovered. Maybe a lifetime is not enough to explore this lovely city. It is said that what happens in Kolkata today happens elsewhere much later and there is enough testimony to prove this. Be it the first capital city, the first tram, or the first metro, Kolkata was always at the forefront. This time around, I decided to experience the iconic food trail of Kolkata which also boasts of several firsts like making Rosgollas, chenna sweets( curdled milk sweets) and several others.


One morning at the crack of dawn we drove down to the Kolkata Stock Exchange near BBD Baug. It was rather early, but a surprise of all the glitzy cars trying to accommodate themselves in the narrow street awaited us. They were all the well-heeled businessmen, young GenZ, and trendy people who had come to have an early morning snack and 'Kullhar chai' in the ram-shackled shops buzzing with activity. After finding a place to sit sipping the hot tea with tiny hot 'samosas' we understood the reason for the mass popularity of this place. There is a repertoire of snacks from Jalebis, Poha, Sandwiches, Dhokla, Chaat plus more. On the weekends and holidays, the crowds are even bigger.

One morning while going around the New Market area, I remembered having read about an old Jewish Bakery called Nahoum's that was in the vicinity. After, a bit of exploring we found a place where several people were buying the stuff which I could never imagine one could get here. Just to name a few, the heart-shaped orange muffins, the truffle cakes, green onion baked cookies an assortment of cakes and pastries besides a variety of breads make one drool. The heavenly melt-in-mouth flavors of this 121 -year-old iconic bakery have delighted thousands of people year after year. It is a must-try place if one has a sweet tooth and love for bakery items

The old part of Kolkata especially around Shyam Bazar has tiny eateries set up two centuries ago. One such place is Haridas Modak. Before we could reach the place we were caught in a traffic jam on the street at an unbelievable 7 AM! The reason was a local market 'haat' that starts around 6 AM and winds up by 8.30AM. This can happen only in Kolkata. Just around the corner of the main junction notice a queue of people who are waiting to be served a traditional Bengali breakfast at a tiny restaurant. The shop is none other than ' Haridas Modak' which has been serving Kachouri, Aloor Tarkari, or Luchi and Cholar Dal with a sweet Jalebi/ Rosgulla/ Kala Jam or locally prepared delicacy for the



last 250 years! Does it not sound incredible. By the way, one can get only one combo Kachouri or Luchi, not both on a particular day. Hardly twenty people can sit at a time while being served piping hot all-day breakfast on a banana leaf. The place has been keeping the tradition of 'Bengali Food Culture' alive, in a rat race for serving fast food with a Western twist. Their food which is loaded with flavors and freshness costs a meagre Rs 12 per Poori/ Kachouri with unlimited Aloor Torkari or Cholar Dal. According to legends the likes of Subhas Chandra Bose and Ramkrishna Bose have eaten here. An adjacent shop prepares a range of Sandesh which you will remember in times to come, once flavored here

The list is endless. The aroma of food and the friendly environment in these eateries transport you to a bygone era where the nice things and simplicity meant much more than the flashiness one sees all around these days. The 'City of Joy' is in fact a city of endless joy to relish the good things of life. So on the next trip to this amazing city do try some of these wonderful places.

PS- All pics are mine

Tuesday, February 13, 2024

Flavours of Morocco







No part of the world is bereft of flavors. Regardless of the number of places one travels to, as long as one is willing to try the local food, one will never be disappointed when searching for food. Every place offers food around the type of local produce of the region. A recent trip to Morocco was a lesson to learn to appreciate food which has a lot of history associated with it. The friendly smiles of the vendors and the experiences have gone down memory lane.
A view from the second floor of the eatery

While walking through the old town Jemma al Fna, on the day I landed, I came across a sweets and savories shop. The food on display was so colorful that it was difficult to take eyes off the shelves. We continued admiring the wares of local craftsmen, like lampshades of brass, trinkets, spices, clothes, shoes, bags, and many more. The hunger pangs soon got the better of us when we stopped by a small eatery where there was very little room. The owner was relishing a soup with 'khubz'. He offered us to taste and then promised us a great fresh cooked meal. His wife and one partner guided us to a sit-out on the second floor from where we could get a lovely view of the souk below and the rising spires of mosques in the distance. 

A spread of Moroccan platters

After half an hour of wait, the steaming tomato broth laced with spices and a whiff of Ras al Hanout( a spice par excellence), a dip prepared with Harissa paste, hummus, and khubz arrived. It was followed with Tajine cooked in an earthenware pot decorated with vegetables and Couscous heaped on a huge tray with a date sauce, nuts, bottle gourd, squash, and peppers. It was an amazing meal with flavors that continued to tingle the taste buds for a long time. We paid an equivalent of eight euros for the entire family. a great value for money. The owner also packed a couple of khubz, complimentary, a sweet gesture indeed! 

An amazing array of desserts

A walk a little further brought us to Patisserie des Princes located in the popular Jemma al Fna. On display were assorted cookies, pastries, chebakias,a massive collection of milkshakes, assorted teas, and above all almond croissants! One bite into these almond croissants was like tasting heaven. No wonder the French who had ruled Morocco for many years had left a legacy of their culinary expertise of croissants for many generations to come. This became our go-to place in days to come. Everywhere we went the smiles from the helpful salesgirls and staff reflected the warmth and hospitality of the people of this little country.

An Almond Croissant

Do not forget to try the biscotti at the little dry fruit sellers. The amazing range of pistachio, almond walnut, and date cookies will leave you asking for more. No matter where you go in Marrakech, the new town Guilez, Jardin Majorelle by Yves Saint Laurent, souks in Jemma al Fna, the aroma of cafe shops, the colorful food items with the most enchanting presentation will be omnipresent. It will leave memories to cherish for a long time. The lip-smacking flavors of Morocco are what memories are made of.

PS- All pictures are mine

Monday, January 8, 2024

A Morning in Marrakesh


Kotoubia Mosque, Marrakesh

I woke up early. It was quite cold still I decided to venture out of the riad (old house) where I was staying to explore the town while it was still dark. The small gate at the entry resembled in many ways the houses where I had spent my holidays in childhood in Mathura and Bulandshahr in UP. One had to bow down to clear the head from the narrow wooden gate. The call of Azaan could be heard from the Kotoubia Mosque a short distance away, was very akin to those ones we hear in Lucknow or the sound of bells and chants from the temples I had seen in Mathura, Varanasi, and several other places of pilgrimage in India. 

The narrow alleyways of Marrakesh


The dark alleyways that were bustling with activity the previous evening were quaintly silent at this hour. Instead of stray dogs, there were some cats on the prowl.


An occasional vendor carrying goods from the nearby places, small tea vendors selling hot mint tea, and the smell of food being cooked in Tajins in eateries was a lovely sight. I was on a mental roller coaster ride trying to compare the early morning jalebi and kachori shops and tea back in India. 




A delectable selection of Moroccan breads

Exactly similar eateries prepare khubz( a flat bread resembling pita made from flour), Msemmen, Batbout Bread( resembling an Indian paratha with layers), and Harcha semolina bread. The aroma of curries filled the air. I could feel a tingle through my skin in trying to draw the comparisons. In small towns of Italy like Moneigla, a similar treat awaits early risers to amazing pieces of bread, focaccia et.al. How all the humans are similar except that they speak a different language, dress differently eat different food but lead almost similar lives.

Some of the alleyways are so narrow that hardly one or two people can pass simultaneously through it. The city was slowly coming to life as the craftsmen in the souks (markets) were unlocking the shutters while exchanging pleasantries. The maze of souks is a perfect place to get lost and it could be a hard time to retrace your route back. Even with Google Maps, it could be a challenge to find the place one is looking for. I returned in about an hour to the place where I was staying.

 Later in the day while strolling through the maze of colorful souks which are an absolute treat for the eyes, the delectable smell of Coscous, tajines, kebabs, and patisseries was very difficult to resist. It was a very refreshing experience, and I will share the memories of a very touristy city, Marrakesh in Morocco in the following posts. 

PS- 1. A trip to Marrakesh in Morocco during the year-end was rewarding in many ways. Keep reading more stories here

2. Pictures of bread kind courtesy of Google 

Monday, December 4, 2023

Learnings in the Navy


It was early in the morning and the rains had just subsided when I reached the briefing room at INS Hansa, a premier front-line establishment of the Navy, located at the Dabolim Airport in Goa. The pilots in their blue flying overalls, the observers (those who assist the pilot in navigation), the meteorological officer, and the ground duty team were assembled for the morning briefing. It was a ritual on every working day to update the pilots on the meteorological conditions, the availability of the landing facilities, direction-finding equipment, radars, etc.

The meteorological officer got up and started detailing the wind conditions, and cloud ceiling, and finally closed saying that the monsoon was good, and the rainy conditions would continue during the day. The squadron commander of the Sea Harrier aircraft quipped jovially, ‘Yeah, we are farmers not pilots so rain will do us good’. The entire room burst into laughter.

Next, it was my turn to brief the pilots about the status of the ground lighting, navigation aids etc. Even before I could start the base commander, asked me the reason for the prolonged failure of the runway lights, the previous day. I sheepishly replied that there was a power outage from the state electricity board and the standby power generator which was supposed to come -on automatically did not start. Also, the diesel generator operator had gone out and it took a while to locate him before the generator could be started. What followed next was a lesson for me to remember for the rest of my life. After the conclusion of the briefing, the base commander got up and told the entire team the need to keep the last man in the entire operation fully involved and motivated for the work he was doing and its importance, especially in the context of the power outage at the base station. Had the diesel operator known how critical his presence is to ensure the smooth functioning of the flying operations, he would not have absented himself from the spot.

In our everyday lives, we take so many things for granted for example if we proceed to the train station, to catch an early morning train. The taxi or auto driver is like a god in human form to enable us to reach the station in time. In many other situations, if we think back, we realize how the help of the man at the bottom of the ladder in any hierarchy helped us to attain our objective. So, the need for acknowledging each one’s contribution and a sense of gratitude goes a long way. It not only makes every man feel important but reflects our values regarding the dignity of labour. It is also one of the most important aspects of team building when executing complex projects. The learnings in the Navy, coming rushing on this Navy Day, helped in building a strong foundation for the future.

PS: Image Kind Courtesy Google

Monday, October 23, 2023

Dusshera Memories

 


The nip in the air after a few recent showers rake up the sweet memories! Indeed the festive season is around the corner. Surprisingly, we have now more than one way of knowing that festive time is knocking on our doors. No prizes for guessing- the media of all kinds is flooded with advertisements from the white good sellers, Amazon, Flipkart and more leading the bandwagon with an eye on the fat wallets of the nouveau rich middle class. After recovering from the after-effects of the pandemic, the world seems to have suddenly realized to make good every moment. The restaurants, malls, stores, and retail stores are enticing the customers and there is no place to maneuver in these places.

As kids, the springing of pandals in the neighborhood and blaring music with loud dialogues from the Ramlila signified the heralding of festive times. After early dinner, we would head to one of these pandals in the neighborhood where the epic 'Ramayana' was being enacted. The smell of freshly roasted peanuts being warmed with a clay pot of burning fire was difficult to resist. So my siblings and I enjoyed our evening till an announcement over the loudspeaker asking for us interrupted the fun. It was time to return home to attend the school the next day. 

Huge effigies were being readied for the D day for consignment to flame next to the venue of Ramlila by artists from villages giving shape to the bamboo twigs. Also, on the sixth day( Shashti) yet another pandal with a majestic idol of goddess Durga astride a lion, demolishing Mahishasur the demon would become a huge draw. It was a nightlong event with cultural programs, heavenly food, screening of Bengali movies, and above all the ladies attired in their best sarees would add to the glitter.

Sometimes we would visit our paternal aunt's place on the Dusshera day where the entire family congregated for a traditional ceremony where the sisters would apply 'tikka' on the forehead of brothers followed by a feast. We would then rush to the venue of Ramlila ground where the effigies would go up in smoke after the traditional slaying of Ravana the demon king by Lord Ram with his ' Dhanush'( bow and arrow). We would all be dressed up in the new clothes to attend this occasion. There were no mobiles or cameras that people carried to record the events. Most of these memories have been created with visuals that bring back the memories of simple times just by the flick of a mental switch.

Over time the world has become a global village. The festivities have added more luster with ' Dandiya' performances and musical evenings everywhere. I wish all my readers a very happy festive season that brings joy and cheer

PS Image kind courtesy Google

Monday, August 14, 2023

The Journey of Independence

 


As the dawn of completion of 76 years of Independence Day approaches, there is much to feel happy about and also to brood over what lies ahead. The earliest memories go back to the days when the tricolor would be unfurled in the school followed by sweets and singing of some patriotic songs. The speech of the prime minister would be heard over the radio recounting the achievements and tribulations. Outside the kids would be busy flying kites and the sky would be festooned with all the hues and at times competing with the tricolored balloons released in the neighborhood. 

Those were the years when India went to war with its neighbors in 1962, 1965, and 1971 and the air would be filled with the stories of valor, award of medals of bravery, and heart saddened to see the lives lost. Lata Mangeshkar the legendary singer sang, ' Ai Mere Watan ki logo' before a jampacked audience at the National Stadium in Delhi in the presence of  Pandit Jawaharlal Nehru, which I vividly remember having attended as a child. A new nation Bangladesh was carved out of erstwhile East Pakistan and for the first time in recorded history, India had won a decisive war with the document of surrender from the Pakistan Army as a piece of evidence for posteriority. All these events were laying the foundations for pursuing a career in the Armed Forces at a later date.

India progressed with leaps and bounds as the 'Green Revolution' and the 'White Revolution' worked as miracles to feed the teeming millions added to the population. An ever-enthusiastic Sanjay Gandhi the son of Ms Indira Gandhi fulfilled his dream to launch a small car ' Maruti' for the Indians and to curb the rising population went on an overdrive to sterilize the young people. This coupled with the Allahabad High Court judgment cost Ms Gandhi her prime ministership. The dark era of " Emergency' followed while I was in college. It was a turbulent time as some of the students also went to jail, The country witnessed the emergence of a short-lived coalition government under Morarji Desai followed by Choudhary Charan Singh. Indira Gandhi returned to power and remained as the prime minister till her assassination in 1984 following ' Operation Bluestar' in Amritsar. Under Rajiv Gandhi, India entered the ' computer age' and never looked back regardless of who came into power. The following years saw rapid multi-dimensional progress including the emergence of the Satellite era and the entire world became a borderless entity. One could see pictures from across the world just by the flick of a remote on the TV screen.

India went through a very harrowing financial crisis in the early '90s when the then PM, P V Narasimha Rao, steered the country out of the financial mess. Another war was looming large when once again Pakistan opened the war front in Kargil. A befitting reply followed by the recapture of Tiger Hill by the valiant Indian Army. Atal Bihari Vajpayee the Indian poet Prime Minister took India to diplomatic heights. Congress once again was back in power under Manmohan Singh. Despite being a financial genius he could not add luster to the job at hand. On the contrary, a series of financial scams brought more disrepute than any accolades! The dynamic Chief Minister of Gujrat Narendra Modi assumed the Prime Minister's office and is firmly saddled for two consecutive terms. The daring feats like taking Pakistan terror camps head-on, demonetization of currency, abrogating Article 370, and resolving the long-standing Ram Mandir dispute are things that will go down the annals of history. Multi-prong development, making a common citizen into a netizen, and making technology and its benefits accessible to an ordinary man is still ongoing reforms.

All these memories flash past as if turning a kalidescope to see the changing images. 

 Indeed we are blessed to be born at a time to see the world transforming around us. From the times to standing in queue for rations and kerosene to travel in airconditioned metro rail there has been a quantum jump. There were times half a day was spent just paying an electricity bill or buying a rail ticket. Nowadays even the ordinary vendor on the street flashes a mobile and collects payment via Paytm. 

Notwithstanding the impediments that we encounter, it is my firm belief that the coming years of independent India will see huge changes to make our lives better and we will proudly  hold our heads high.

PS: Image kind courtesy Google

 


Friday, June 30, 2023

Loving Rains

 


The rainy weather brings torrents of memories as the strong winds, a clap of thunder, and lightning bring the raindrops to soak the parched earth. The earliest memories of playing in the rain with abandon and floating paper boats in the puddle of water get refreshed. The streaking vehicles on the street would leave a trail of  by soiling the clothes and bodies with mud. Unless it was a school uniform we never cared, 



Like every weather rains have a special soothing effect after days of blistering heat, sweat, and perspiration. The markets are flooded with mangoes as the watermelons and rock melons make a hasty retreat. The sight of trees dripping with water droplets and the wet birds hiding in the corners quietly is fascinating. The aroma of hot fritters(pakoras) spiced with green chutney prepared from fresh mint and cardamom tea would even wake a dragon from its slumber. I recollect the days I was posted in Goa while serving in the Navy, Our house overlooked the sea and with the onset of monsoon, the sea would no longer remain tranquil. Sometimes the fishermen caught in the rain would sing songs while returning ashore. The treat of pakoras and tea would oft getrepeated while admiring the pitter-patter of the rains and hearing the songs of fishermen., as there were several rainy days at a stretch. Sometimes when I accompanied my wife and daughter on my scooter would get caught in the rain after purchases from the local market in Vasco-da-Gama, After reaching home the exercise to unpack the ration had to be done with a precision of a surgical operation to avoid making a mixture of lentils or a mix of different flours.

I also vividly recollect when I first saw the fury of monsoons when I landed in Cochin( Kochi now) at the Naval Academy. At night the lightning and thunder would strike with such ferocity that I would jump outof the bed.  In Delhi,  I had never seen such rains at a stretch, as I  witnessed  in Kerala. Most of mornings, the day would start going out for long jogs and PT in the drizzle and return totally drenched before the next event of the day!

One night when we were on a sailing camp at the academy, we cast our boat at Bolgatty Island ( now a five-star hotel) for the night. It was peltering cats and dogs and as I stepped near the shore my foot slipped on the  moss on a rock at midnight and I landed in the sea. Everything blacked out as I struggled to hoist myself up. Fortunately, there was a boat tethered alongside which I caught by the side of a buoy.

There are a galore of tales related to rains that I have witnessed and each story is equally fascinating making the rains one of my favorite times of the year

PS Images kind courtesy Google